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Wildspot - Hakuba Valley

If Niseko is the premier resort on Japan's northern Hokkaido prefecture (if you haven't heard of Niseko, check our Wild Spot in Monkey Say Issue #3), then the Hakuba Valley provides the definitive snowboarding experience on Japan's main island of Honshu. Many, many quality resorts sit outside this major city, which is only 90 minutes on a bullet train from Tokyo. The pick of the 15 resorts on offer include Happo-One, Hakuba 47, Sanosaka and Goryu. While the valley might not be as world-renowned as Niseko, there are fewer foreigners around as a result. So if you're looking to experience snowboarding Japanese-style (without marauding Aussies and Kiwi's), you should experience Hakuba before the word gets out and it inevitably changes.

Any time in Japan is pretty wild, from the crazy eel laden brekkies, neon overdose to the all-conquering, all-providing vending machines, Japan always offers a (sometimes kinda freaky) cultural experience.

Funnily enough though, the main attraction of Hakuba Valley is the sheer amount of snow that this place cops each and every winter. The valley gets absolutely blasted with snow, but you'll soon notice that the majority of locals are loath to venture out of bounds due to the resport regulations on off-piste riding. These are strictly adhered to and the classic head-fuck for a foreign visitor surrounded by all this powder is whether or not to transgress this local custom and get amongst it. If you do, remember rumours of arrests are commonplace, as are avalanches so don't say you haven't been warned.

Luckily, the resorts and snow conditions are that good you don't need to trek too far anyway. As well as all that powder to play in, there's always a good range of little parks and a very well maintained pipe for freestylers. The 1998 winter Olympics were held here and in true Japanese style the infrastructure is amazing. Most of the resorts have regular floodlighting; meaning dusky powder and pipe sessions are another must-do.

Accom wise we recommend Monkey Rider www.monkeyrider.com.au, a hostel run by an Aussie crew. They know what it takes to ensure riders have a good time, both on and off the mountain. As an indication, their bar is manned and DJ'd by Outrun's Dan Preston and now they're building a little jib rail out the front for back at the hostel action. The Monkey Rider crew will look after you and take you to all the best bars which you'll be happy to know, are usually small, plentiful and pretty cool. Also make sure you hit an Onsen Japanese-style public hot tub. There are several public and hotel facilities in the Valley but be warned, boardshorts are not permitted. Yep, the tackle must be out. Told you, it's pretty wild.

Ben Mondy

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